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Domaine Louis Magnin

The regional demand for Savoie wines is so great, it sometimes exceeds supply. Given that situation, it can be sufficient to merely produce vins de soifs for the thirsty tourist hordes. Beatrice and Louis Magnin took a direction tack, systematically opposed to what everyone else was doing, instead producing gem-like wines for clued-in oenophiles. We know few winemakers with the ideals, aptitude, perfectionism and pugnacity to work at their level. It is unanimously agreed that their wines have a constancy of the highest quality.

The reds that made their reputation are made with a single varietal: mondeuse. A cepage indigenous to Savoie, it absolutely requires aging to reveal its aristocracy. (Try the 2005 now and you will not believe how incredibly good it is—just ask our translator!) The Magnins make four cuvées, including a cuvée Tradition available at the SAQ, and others occasionally available as private imports (Le Rouge, Brova, and Vieilles Vignes). As far as their whites are concerned, they make a Roussette de Savoie and two cuvees of bergeron, the local name for rousanne, available as private imports. All self-respecting wine hedonists will want to squirrel away at least a few bottles of Domaine Louis Magnin in their cellar.

Francis Darroze

Two situations led to the founding of the Darroze domaine in the 1970s. The production of fine Bas Armagnacs was at that point done artisanally through the Gascon countryside without any real commercial organization. In charge of the wine list at the renowned family restaurant in Villeneuve-sur-Marsan, Francis Darroze had to comb the outlying farmlands in order to secure supplies of Armagnac. It then occurred to him to create a négoce operation that would produce and age (for extended periods) Bas Armagnacs aimed at restaurants and in-the-know consumers. Mark, the son of Francis, is now in charge of operations.

These days, the Darroze estate enjoys a stellar international reputation underpinned by their distribution of thirty crus of eaux-de-vie, each retaining the fingerprint of their originating property, as well as a range of Armagnacs made of assemblages of different vintages.

Domaine Rotier

Domaine Rotier is an archetype of those French wines found far from the crowd of famous names in Bordeaux or Burgundy.

Located in the south-east of the sud-ouest, Gaillac is the most picturesque appellation in France with regard to the permissibility of its production and the variety of cépages which can be used. The AOC allows for the production of dry white wines, sweet white wines, rosés, reds and also different types of sparkling wines from their many varieties, several of which are native.

Alain Rotier and Francis Marre are fully committed to representing Gaillac’s true identity. The reds are mainly made with Duras and Braucol, while the white are dominated by a variety called Loin de l’Oeil. The vines are grown organically. The step-brothers’ unwavering efforts are all aimed at increasing the quality of their grapes. In 2001, they courageously decided to increase the density of their vines as a way of accentuating the character of the terroir and providing more throttle to their wines. Their red Gaillac Renaissance is a solid bet as an SAQ specialty product.

Domaine de Ménard

In the heart of the Bas-Armagnac, the Domaine de Ménard can be found on the famous Via Podensis, the route taken for centuries by pilgrims traveling to Saint Jacques de Compostelle. In this beautiful corner of southwestern France, so typical of the Gascogne, the domain exploits 120 hectares of vines, made entirely under the appellation of Côtes de Gascogne.

Our team’s unanimous favourite wine is the Colombard-Sauvignon, a wine which offers not only a great expression of the terroir, but at a price that is hard to believe.

Château Haut-Monplaisir

As mentioned in our description of Château du Cèdre, the good-natured Pascal Verhaeghe plays a role advising other domaines in the region. For the past decade, Mr. Verhaeghe has guided the work of Château Haut-Monplaisir, from the vines to the cellar, which is undertaken with painstaking care by the owners Cathy and Daniel Fournié. The vineyard is located on the best terroir of the Cahors appellation, namely on the “troisieme terrasse” that the Lot River carved through Kimmeridgian limestone during the Mesozoic era.

The Fourniés’ updating of their family vineyard required immense efforts in order to bring it up to modern standards. Having completed that lengthy undertaking, they are now making wines that are paragons of the appellation. Wine guides are recognizing the high quality of Haut-Monplaisir’s Cahors. The 2012 Guide des Meilleurs Vins de France notes that “their entire range of wines reveals a pleasant homogeneity from the lower-end cuvées, which are serious and well-defined, to their fuller, more expansive prestige cuvées.”

Château du Cèdre

Any delegation of Cahors winemakers invited to the imaginary opening ceremony of the Wine Olympics would certainly include the brothers Pascal and Jean-Marc Verhaeghe as flag bearers of the appellation. These are elite winemakers and ambassadors of both their region and the malbec grape. To put it succinctly, Château du Cèdre is the reference in Cahors.

Jean-Marc is more active among the vines and while Pascal plays a bigger role on the winemaking and commerce end of things. With their domaine-owned land, they produce three Cahors wines, all of which are specialties at the SAQ. The cuvée Château du Cèdre (formerly called “Prestige”) attempts to mellow the inherent angularity of most malbecs, without compromising the robust typicity of Cahors wines. Their cuvées Le Cedre’ and GC come from the finest terroirs in the appellation, soils with a similar composition to Burgundy, mainly limestone scree. The name GC (aka Grand Cru) is also evocative of the comparison, both in terms of terroir and winemaking style. (A burgundian Cahors? Yes, this is it!) After successively eliminating chemical weed control in 1992, and then, ten years after, doing away with all chemical fertilizers, they’ve been farming fully organically since 2009.

The Verhaeghe brothers also oversee a co-op that regroups vintners from across Cahors. Le Chatons du Cèdre, at all SAQ stores, is a brilliant example of this partnership’s achievements.

Roc du Manoir

Roc du Manoir is one of the three Castillon-Côtes de Bordeaux wines produced by Severine and Philippe Émile, who are from Saint-Genes-de-Castillon, a commune adjacent to Saint-Émilion.

Roc du Manoir is their entry level wine, and is sourced from their estate 22-hectare vineyard. The region’s soils of the Castillon-Côtes vary though the best vineyards, like those of Roc du Manoir, are on the clay-limestone plateaus and hillsides. The age, yields and exposure of the vines are what differentiates their three cuvees (Roc du Manoir, Le Secret, and La Violette). Stéphane Derenoncourt’s team of oenologist-consultants supervises all the property’s activities.

Domaine de l’A

Domaine de l’A is owned by Stéphane and Christine Derenoncourt. Stéphane is one of the most prominent personalities in Bordeaux.

His career began at Château Pavie-Macquin, where he played a crucial role in the famous estate’s rebirth in the 1980s. Stephan von Neiperg and he then co-directed the cult winery La Mondotte. Their collaboration has continued with some of von Neiperg’s other holdings, including Château Canon, Château La Gaffelière, and Château Aiguilhe. In 1999, Stéphane created Vignerons Consultants, a wine consultant firm whose ten employees now advise wineries in nine countries around the world.

He is not a winemaker who feels the need to put his signature on all the wines he touches. Rather he puts the emphasis on terroir, helping it express itself in his wines. Le Domaine de L’A is in many ways the training centre and the laboratory for the methods and treatments disseminated by his consulting firm. All ten acres of his vineyards are cultivated biodynamically. On their high quality clay-limestone soils, the Derenoncourts are increasing the proportion of cabernet franc in their blend, currently at 25%, for the extra stability and tension the variety brings. Harvested manually, the grapes are placed in oak vats without additional yeasts, and are punched down in true Burgundian style. The wine is aged in new and slightly used oak barrels. This is the quintessence of Côtes du Castillon, a rare mix of power and elegance.

Clos Manou

Françoise and Stéphane Dief make high octane Médoc, working at the same caliber as those who tend the classified crus.

Their approach recalls the remarkable efforts undertaken in the 1970s by Jean Gautreau to elevate his Château Sociando-Mallet in Haut-Medoc to the ranks of the greats. The Dief built their domain over time, gradually acquiring parcels of vines in the region of Saint Christoly, particularly those located on gravel and those capable of high density plantings. The vines are meticulously maintained in order to produce low yields. The harvest is manual and the grapes are sorted and destemmed by hand. The recent overhaul of their chai showcases the Diefs’ insistence for functionality and hygiene, not to mention their talent for unostentatious design. Clos Manou is a selection of the best juice from one third of the property, and its élevage is done in new barrels. Petit Manou is not intended to be a second wine. Although aged in older barriques, it receives the same meticulous care as the Clos Manou. Many connoisseurs consider these two wines to be amongst the best values in Bordeaux. Cabernet sauvignon makes up roughly half of the vineyard’s 13 hectares, 40% is merlot, with petit verdot and cabernet franc making up the last 10%.

Château Rigaud

Pierre Taix is known for making radical life changes. He left a successful career in the world of finance to take over managing the family domain in Puisseguin-Saint Émilion.

Taix is a remarkably genuine person and we appreciate his insightful statements on wine making and the way he does business, always open and sincere. The vineyard is biodynamic, a path Taix has taken because he believes it makes better wine and out of consideration for the environment. Two wines are released from this single vineyard. Made from vines with an average age of 35 years, Château Rigaud is the domain’s easy-drinking wine, made for immediate consumption. It’s both tasty and an exceptional value. The grapes from their older vines are used to make Château La Maurianne, which is aged in 500-liter Austrian fûts, which barely flavour the wines while still offering the desired effects of wood-aged élevages. In expert tastings, this wine rivals more prestigious crus of Saint Émilion. Maurianne is a Right Bank outsider, in the best possible sense.