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Archives

Domaine Claude Lafond

The appellations of Reuilly and Quincy are twin sisters in between Sancerre and Montlouis in the southern Loire. Coincidentally, both Domaine Lafond, a leading light in Reuilly, and Domaine Mardon in Quincy, are run by women. Nathalie Lafond, has carried on the work of her father Claude with as much fervor as he. (Without him, the entire appellation of Reuilly might have fallen into obscurity.) As in Quincy, the reds here are made from Pinot Noir (or Baco Noir) and the whites are, of course, Sauvignon blanc.

Two of Domaine Lafond’s wines are specialties at the SAQ: their brilliant sauvignon, Clos des Messieurs and their pinot noir Les Grandes Vignes, which offers spectacular value. The Guide des Vin de France by Bettane and Desseauve notes that “this key domain of Indre produces well-made wines of a beautiful constancy.”

Domaine Jean-Marc et Hugues Pavelot

The domain is managed by Hugues Pavelot, who has taken over in recent years from his father Jean-Marc.

The domaine has impressive holdings: six plots of premier cru Savigny-les-Beaune, three of which are in the famed valley of Bouilland. Their basic Savigny is a perfect marriage of tension and freshness. The premier crus beautifully reflect their respective terroirs, and have proven over time their ability to age with grace and elegance. It is is highly recommended to cellar crus like Les Peuillets and La Dominode. A perusal of reviews from recent vintages by Burghound’s Allan Meadows reveals that Pavelot is amongst the appellation’s best.

Domaine Jacques Carillon

2009 marked the last year the brothers Carillon made wines together as Domaine Louis Carillon, their father’s name. From 2010, the family vineyard is divided between the two brothers, each of whom has created their own domain. The Carillon name is undoubtedly one of the standard-bearers for chardonnay in the Côte de Beaune. The two brothers are gifted and unwilling to compromise in their efforts to produce spectacular wine. Both Jacques and François will certainly live up to the Carillon name. Maître de Chai represents both domaines in Quebec.

The Carillon vines are old, which explains—alongside the hard work in the vineyard—the stamp of terroir in these wines. The elevages last 18 months in barriques, adding weight and structure. Those patient (and wise) enough to hold off from opening Carillon’s premier crus for a few years will be rewarded with tasting moments that are in themselves celebratory occasions.

Domaine Hubert Lamy

Hubert’s son Olivier Lamy is an exemplary winemaker with a formidable work-ethic and a deep intellect. He unites these talents in the service of his two greatest ideals and passions: crafting fine wine and raising awareness of one of Burgundy’s most under-estimated appellations, Saint Aubin.

Tending truly magnificent terroirs, the wines of this domaine and those of Marc Colin are the appellation’s two greatest ambassadors. Olivier Lamy produces energetic reds and an impeccable range of white crus that all showcase purity and finesse. The pinots are expressive, and the chardonnays direct and elegant. If you put together a dream-team of top young Burgundian producers, the fourty-something Olivier Lamy would definitely be one of its stars.

Domaine Roulot

Jean-Marc Roulot is a Burgundy icon.

Alongside the domaine’s own hyper-perfectionist bottlings, he also runs a boutique négoce firm which produces gorgeous Meursaults. Le Maître de Chai brings in minute quantities of his négoce wines, and also represents his Poire du Roulot. Not many people know that Jean-Marc Roulot manufactures fine distillates, using the knowledge and equipment handed down by his ancestors. Monumentally good stuff.

Domaine François Carillon

2009 marked the last year the brothers Carillon made wines together under the label Domaine Louis Carillon, their father’s name. From 2010, the family vineyard has been divided between the two brothers, each of whom has created their own domaine. The Carillon name is undoubtedly one of the standard-bearers for chardonnay in the Côte de Beaune. The two brothers are gifted and unwilling to compromise in their efforts to produce spectacular wine. Both Jacques and François will certainly live up to the Carillon name and Maître de Chai represents both brothers in Quebec.

The Carillon vines are old, which explains—alongside the hard work in the vineyard—the stamp of terroir in these wines. The elevages last 18 months in barriques, adding weight and structure. Francois Carillon is actively seeking new plots in Puligny to enhance his holdings. His range will likely expand over the coming years.

Delicious from the outset, those patient (and wise) enough to hold off from opening Carillon’s premier crus for a few years will be rewarded.

Domaine de Bellivière

The appellations of Jasnières and Coteaux du Loir are known almost exclusively to wine-world insiders. Small in size, they are hidden away around fifty kilometers north of Tours, on the slopes of Loir in the Loire basin. Getting there is a form of pilgrimage for oenophiles. Just ask Eric Nicolas. Originally from Paris, Nicolas and his family settled there twenty years ago to become a vigneron—and one with convictions.

The Nicolas family work with thirty plots spread over five communes. They farm and work biodynamically. Also, the vines are plowed, cropped, and harvested manually. The Nicolas’ are seriously hard workers. And they’re equally visionary: they now enjoy a reputation that is inversely proportional to the size of their AOCs. To put it bluntly: the Domaine de Bellivière make fantastic wines.

Bellivière’s chenins are among the most interesting delights of the entire Loire region. There is something infinitely alluring to their minerality and general disposition. Their Vieilles Vignes Éparses and Calligramme must be put in the cellar for several years before being opened.

Domaine des Croix

Rarely mentioned in wine guides, Domaine des Croix might be the best-kept secret of the Côte d’Or.

Founded in 2005, following the acquisition of the former Domaine Duchet by a group of US-led investors, the domaine can be found in the heart of the town of Beaune, and led by the dynamic co-owner David Croix, also the régisseur for Maison Camille Giroud.

Croix produces wines that defy one’s conception of what is Beaune. The appellation’s production is largely under the control of large negociants, but Croix shows what attention to detail can achieve. His Pertuisots, Grèves and Bressandes show a body and texture rarely found in the AOC’s usual premiers crus. With four premier crus from Beaune to their name, as well as a village cuvée, Domaine des Croix is setting new standards for the appellation.

They make a majestic white Corton-Charlemagne and, as of 2009, they’ve started producing grand crus from two lieux-dits in Corton: La Vigne au Saint and Les Grèves.

Still in his thirties, David Croix and the Domain received the following appraisal from Clive Coates in his 2008 book The Wine of Burgundy: “This estate is run by the talented David Croix, winemaker at Maison Camille Giroud. I expect great things here.” Based on our own tastings, as well as recent comments in the media on the latest vintages, we believe those “great things” are already happening.

Domaine de la Pousse d’Or

This domaine is one of the crown jewels of Burgundy.

Patrick Landanger, who bought the property in 1997, was born to be a winemaker, and the proof is how he has been able maintain the high reputation established by the previous owner, the legendary Gérard Potel. Their impressive vineyard holdings includes ten premier and grands crus in the Côte de Beaune, including four premier crus in the commune of Volnay (three of them are monopoles: Clos des Bousse d’Or, Clos d’Audignac, and Clos des 60 Ouvrées. Beginning with the 2009 vintage, Pousse d’Or has acquired significant vineyards in Côte de Nuits, including several formidable crus in Chambolle-Musigny such as Les Amoureuses and Bonnes Marres, as well as Clos de la Roche in Morey. Their mosaic of parcels is one of the largest and most prestigious of all Burgundy.

The wines are complete, full, harmonious, and always exhibit great elegance. Their approach is to harvest physiologically ripe grapes. They also employ techniques of cold maceration prior to fermentation and they strive for moderate extractions. These methods define the wines of La Pousse D’Or: noble bouquets, smooth and velvety textures, and wines that combine concentration and balance.