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Bonnet Huteau

Bonnet-Huteau

Domaine Bonnet-Huteau is situated in Muscadet heartlands, just inside the Sevre et Maine perimeter.

Ten years ago, two brothers—Jacques and Jean-Rémi Bonnet—abandoned conventional agriculture, making a return to fieldwork and low yields. Five years ago, their conversion to organic agriculture was complete.

A well-made Muscadet is a good deal. It’s nothing like the entry-level Muscadets one finds distributed all over the world. With the AOC’s enormous growing area – about 9,000 hectares, in total – it is harder to garner accolades from the press here than it is in, say, Vosne-Romanée. Connoisseurs will be pleased to note that that Château de la Tarcière is included among the sélection de vignerons in the reference book Le Chemin des Vignes / Vallée de la Loire  produced by Le Rouge et le Blanc.

Château de Villeneuve

The appellation of Saumur-Champigny could not have found a better person to preside over its producers union than Jean-Pierre Chevallier.

To the prerequisites of diplomacy and a sense of what’s best for everyone, Jean-Pierre also adds a touch of perfectionism. As a result of his presidency, the appelation’s wines have been able to ascend in quality levels. As early as twenty years ago, the Château de Villeneuve made a concerted effort to produce not just ho-hum wines, but superior wines reflecting their place. These wines can be classified among Saumur-Champigny’s trio of elites.

Their basic cuvée – which is anything but a basic wine – is sold in SAQs. It’s a Cabernet Franc de soif, but not without its own complexities. It is a sapid, highly drinkable wine, helped in no small part by the brightness of the fruit and the soft tannins. Fortunately, the wine is almost always availabile. The intermediate cuvée Vieilles Vignes, and the high-end cuvée Le Grand Clos are both distributed through private importation.

Domaine Lucien Muzard & Fils

Chez Muzard wine is a family affair. Having taking over from their father Lucien, the brothers Claude and Hervé Muzard now run the family estate.

In the region of Santenay, the Muzard name is highly visible, as much for the breadth of the family’s vineyards (which includes five premier cru sites in the appellation), as for their leadership and quality of their wines.
The Muzard brothers share a vision for producing wholesome wines; and they also understand the work required to make those wines. In 2009, they proudly converted their entire vineyard holdings to organics. Whether in the vines or in the cellar, they work seriously and energetically. Their wines always show bright, attractive fruit in youth, and they have the structure needed for serious aging as well. Their wines have stuffing found all too rarely in modern-day Santenay. Firmly established as SAQ stalwarts, the wines of Domaine Lucien Muzard always offer exceptional quality at a reasonable price.

Domaine Claude Lafond

The appellations of Reuilly and Quincy are twin sisters in between Sancerre and Montlouis in the southern Loire. Coincidentally, both Domaine Lafond, a leading light in Reuilly, and Domaine Mardon in Quincy, are run by women. Nathalie Lafond, has carried on the work of her father Claude with as much fervor as he. (Without him, the entire appellation of Reuilly might have fallen into obscurity.) As in Quincy, the reds here are made from Pinot Noir (or Baco Noir) and the whites are, of course, Sauvignon blanc.

Two of Domaine Lafond’s wines are specialties at the SAQ: their brilliant sauvignon, Clos des Messieurs and their pinot noir Les Grandes Vignes, which offers spectacular value. The Guide des Vin de France by Bettane and Desseauve notes that “this key domain of Indre produces well-made wines of a beautiful constancy.”

Domaine Jean-Marc et Hugues Pavelot

The domain is managed by Hugues Pavelot, who has taken over in recent years from his father Jean-Marc.

The domaine has impressive holdings: six plots of premier cru Savigny-les-Beaune, three of which are in the famed valley of Bouilland. Their basic Savigny is a perfect marriage of tension and freshness. The premier crus beautifully reflect their respective terroirs, and have proven over time their ability to age with grace and elegance. It is is highly recommended to cellar crus like Les Peuillets and La Dominode. A perusal of reviews from recent vintages by Burghound’s Allan Meadows reveals that Pavelot is amongst the appellation’s best.

Domaine Jacques Carillon

2009 marked the last year the brothers Carillon made wines together as Domaine Louis Carillon, their father’s name. From 2010, the family vineyard is divided between the two brothers, each of whom has created their own domain. The Carillon name is undoubtedly one of the standard-bearers for chardonnay in the Côte de Beaune. The two brothers are gifted and unwilling to compromise in their efforts to produce spectacular wine. Both Jacques and François will certainly live up to the Carillon name. Maître de Chai represents both domaines in Quebec.

The Carillon vines are old, which explains—alongside the hard work in the vineyard—the stamp of terroir in these wines. The elevages last 18 months in barriques, adding weight and structure. Those patient (and wise) enough to hold off from opening Carillon’s premier crus for a few years will be rewarded with tasting moments that are in themselves celebratory occasions.

Domaine Hubert Lamy

Hubert’s son Olivier Lamy is an exemplary winemaker with a formidable work-ethic and a deep intellect. He unites these talents in the service of his two greatest ideals and passions: crafting fine wine and raising awareness of one of Burgundy’s most under-estimated appellations, Saint Aubin.

Tending truly magnificent terroirs, the wines of this domaine and those of Marc Colin are the appellation’s two greatest ambassadors. Olivier Lamy produces energetic reds and an impeccable range of white crus that all showcase purity and finesse. The pinots are expressive, and the chardonnays direct and elegant. If you put together a dream-team of top young Burgundian producers, the fourty-something Olivier Lamy would definitely be one of its stars.

Domaine Roulot

Jean-Marc Roulot is a Burgundy icon.

Alongside the domaine’s own hyper-perfectionist bottlings, he also runs a boutique négoce firm which produces gorgeous Meursaults. Le Maître de Chai brings in minute quantities of his négoce wines, and also represents his Poire du Roulot. Not many people know that Jean-Marc Roulot manufactures fine distillates, using the knowledge and equipment handed down by his ancestors. Monumentally good stuff.

Domaine François Carillon

2009 marked the last year the brothers Carillon made wines together under the label Domaine Louis Carillon, their father’s name. From 2010, the family vineyard has been divided between the two brothers, each of whom has created their own domaine. The Carillon name is undoubtedly one of the standard-bearers for chardonnay in the Côte de Beaune. The two brothers are gifted and unwilling to compromise in their efforts to produce spectacular wine. Both Jacques and François will certainly live up to the Carillon name and Maître de Chai represents both brothers in Quebec.

The Carillon vines are old, which explains—alongside the hard work in the vineyard—the stamp of terroir in these wines. The elevages last 18 months in barriques, adding weight and structure. Francois Carillon is actively seeking new plots in Puligny to enhance his holdings. His range will likely expand over the coming years.

Delicious from the outset, those patient (and wise) enough to hold off from opening Carillon’s premier crus for a few years will be rewarded.

Domaine de Bellivière

The appellations of Jasnières and Coteaux du Loir are known almost exclusively to wine-world insiders. Small in size, they are hidden away around fifty kilometers north of Tours, on the slopes of Loir in the Loire basin. Getting there is a form of pilgrimage for oenophiles. Just ask Eric Nicolas. Originally from Paris, Nicolas and his family settled there twenty years ago to become a vigneron—and one with convictions.

The Nicolas family work with thirty plots spread over five communes. They farm and work biodynamically. Also, the vines are plowed, cropped, and harvested manually. The Nicolas’ are seriously hard workers. And they’re equally visionary: they now enjoy a reputation that is inversely proportional to the size of their AOCs. To put it bluntly: the Domaine de Bellivière make fantastic wines.

Bellivière’s chenins are among the most interesting delights of the entire Loire region. There is something infinitely alluring to their minerality and general disposition. Their Vieilles Vignes Éparses and Calligramme must be put in the cellar for several years before being opened.