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Archives

Domaine Marc Colin

Marc Colin, the patriarch and founder of the domain, created one of the most reputed estates in Chassagne-Montrachet and Saint-Aubin.

Over the past decade, two of his sons, Damien and Joseph, and his daughter Caroline, have taken over. But the quality and reputation has remained constant as the domaine is still considered to be at the top of the Côte de Beaune.
Their vineyard holdings are impressive, as much for the sheer quantity of appellations as for their prestige. They make eleven Saint-Aubin, nine of them as premier crus, as well as six Chassagne-Montrachets, four of which are premier crus. There are three Puligny-Montrachets, two Santenays and two grands crus, Montrachet and Batard-Montrachet.
Often rivalling wines of the neighbouring, more prestigious appellations, Colin’s white Saint-Aubins (alongside those of Hubert Lamy) have lifted the appellation into the constellation of Burgundy’s greatest appellations. But despite the number of different wines they produce, their supply isn’t close to meeting the global demand. Brilliant stylists, the Colins make delicate, vibrant white wines of great beauty.

Domaine du Clos des Fées

Hervé Bizeul, creator of Clos des Fées, is quite the character.

He’s also formidably accomplished. He’d been a sommelier emeritus, a restaurateur, and a food and wine critic before throwing himself body and soul into the production of Côtes du Roussillon wines in his mid-forties. Eloquent, insightful, proud and with a flair for the dramatic, he found the idea of making “basic” wines to be beneath his dignity. It’s well-known today that he accomplished his goal of superlative quality in an under-recognized region.

The main guides of France wine all agree on the excellence. Could his consecration in these guides be even more impressive? It is quite possible, yes. Perhaps the hint of critical reserve might partially explain his turbulent personality. Adding to his accolades is the strong impact of his blog, which Bizeul maintains with passion and individuality.

In our view, all top producers should be able to produce, as unconditionally as their top cuvées, excellent wines at remarkably low prices. To wit, his cuvée Les Sorcières, one of Clos des Fées wines in the SAQ’s specialty section, is all about easy, instant happiness. Hervé Bizeul’s wines cover a spectrum of price points. In the mid-range, his cuvée Vieilles Vignes is a wise choice for those patient enough to wait a few years. The cuvées Clos des Fees and La Petite Sibérie offer proof that Roussillon’s terroirs deserve to be considered among the very best.

Bonnet Huteau

Bonnet-Huteau

Domaine Bonnet-Huteau is situated in Muscadet heartlands, just inside the Sevre et Maine perimeter.

Ten years ago, two brothers—Jacques and Jean-Rémi Bonnet—abandoned conventional agriculture, making a return to fieldwork and low yields. Five years ago, their conversion to organic agriculture was complete.

A well-made Muscadet is a good deal. It’s nothing like the entry-level Muscadets one finds distributed all over the world. With the AOC’s enormous growing area – about 9,000 hectares, in total – it is harder to garner accolades from the press here than it is in, say, Vosne-Romanée. Connoisseurs will be pleased to note that that Château de la Tarcière is included among the sélection de vignerons in the reference book Le Chemin des Vignes / Vallée de la Loire  produced by Le Rouge et le Blanc.

Château de Villeneuve

The appellation of Saumur-Champigny could not have found a better person to preside over its producers union than Jean-Pierre Chevallier.

To the prerequisites of diplomacy and a sense of what’s best for everyone, Jean-Pierre also adds a touch of perfectionism. As a result of his presidency, the appelation’s wines have been able to ascend in quality levels. As early as twenty years ago, the Château de Villeneuve made a concerted effort to produce not just ho-hum wines, but superior wines reflecting their place. These wines can be classified among Saumur-Champigny’s trio of elites.

Their basic cuvée – which is anything but a basic wine – is sold in SAQs. It’s a Cabernet Franc de soif, but not without its own complexities. It is a sapid, highly drinkable wine, helped in no small part by the brightness of the fruit and the soft tannins. Fortunately, the wine is almost always availabile. The intermediate cuvée Vieilles Vignes, and the high-end cuvée Le Grand Clos are both distributed through private importation.

Domaine Lucien Muzard & Fils

Chez Muzard wine is a family affair. Having taking over from their father Lucien, the brothers Claude and Hervé Muzard now run the family estate.

In the region of Santenay, the Muzard name is highly visible, as much for the breadth of the family’s vineyards (which includes five premier cru sites in the appellation), as for their leadership and quality of their wines.
The Muzard brothers share a vision for producing wholesome wines; and they also understand the work required to make those wines. In 2009, they proudly converted their entire vineyard holdings to organics. Whether in the vines or in the cellar, they work seriously and energetically. Their wines always show bright, attractive fruit in youth, and they have the structure needed for serious aging as well. Their wines have stuffing found all too rarely in modern-day Santenay. Firmly established as SAQ stalwarts, the wines of Domaine Lucien Muzard always offer exceptional quality at a reasonable price.

Domaine Claude Lafond

The appellations of Reuilly and Quincy are twin sisters in between Sancerre and Montlouis in the southern Loire. Coincidentally, both Domaine Lafond, a leading light in Reuilly, and Domaine Mardon in Quincy, are run by women. Nathalie Lafond, has carried on the work of her father Claude with as much fervor as he. (Without him, the entire appellation of Reuilly might have fallen into obscurity.) As in Quincy, the reds here are made from Pinot Noir (or Baco Noir) and the whites are, of course, Sauvignon blanc.

Two of Domaine Lafond’s wines are specialties at the SAQ: their brilliant sauvignon, Clos des Messieurs and their pinot noir Les Grandes Vignes, which offers spectacular value. The Guide des Vin de France by Bettane and Desseauve notes that “this key domain of Indre produces well-made wines of a beautiful constancy.”

Domaine Jean-Marc et Hugues Pavelot

The domain is managed by Hugues Pavelot, who has taken over in recent years from his father Jean-Marc.

The domaine has impressive holdings: six plots of premier cru Savigny-les-Beaune, three of which are in the famed valley of Bouilland. Their basic Savigny is a perfect marriage of tension and freshness. The premier crus beautifully reflect their respective terroirs, and have proven over time their ability to age with grace and elegance. It is is highly recommended to cellar crus like Les Peuillets and La Dominode. A perusal of reviews from recent vintages by Burghound’s Allan Meadows reveals that Pavelot is amongst the appellation’s best.

Domaine Jacques Carillon

2009 marked the last year the brothers Carillon made wines together as Domaine Louis Carillon, their father’s name. From 2010, the family vineyard is divided between the two brothers, each of whom has created their own domain. The Carillon name is undoubtedly one of the standard-bearers for chardonnay in the Côte de Beaune. The two brothers are gifted and unwilling to compromise in their efforts to produce spectacular wine. Both Jacques and François will certainly live up to the Carillon name. Maître de Chai represents both domaines in Quebec.

The Carillon vines are old, which explains—alongside the hard work in the vineyard—the stamp of terroir in these wines. The elevages last 18 months in barriques, adding weight and structure. Those patient (and wise) enough to hold off from opening Carillon’s premier crus for a few years will be rewarded with tasting moments that are in themselves celebratory occasions.

Domaine Hubert Lamy

Hubert’s son Olivier Lamy is an exemplary winemaker with a formidable work-ethic and a deep intellect. He unites these talents in the service of his two greatest ideals and passions: crafting fine wine and raising awareness of one of Burgundy’s most under-estimated appellations, Saint Aubin.

Tending truly magnificent terroirs, the wines of this domaine and those of Marc Colin are the appellation’s two greatest ambassadors. Olivier Lamy produces energetic reds and an impeccable range of white crus that all showcase purity and finesse. The pinots are expressive, and the chardonnays direct and elegant. If you put together a dream-team of top young Burgundian producers, the fourty-something Olivier Lamy would definitely be one of its stars.

Domaine Roulot

Jean-Marc Roulot is a Burgundy icon.

Alongside the domaine’s own hyper-perfectionist bottlings, he also runs a boutique négoce firm which produces gorgeous Meursaults. Le Maître de Chai brings in minute quantities of his négoce wines, and also represents his Poire du Roulot. Not many people know that Jean-Marc Roulot manufactures fine distillates, using the knowledge and equipment handed down by his ancestors. Monumentally good stuff.