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Domaine Philippe et Vincent Lecheneaut

The Lecheneaut brothers focus mainly on producing fine villages-level wines, from all the appellations in the Côte de Nuits, except Fixin. As a result, they are an ideal way of comparing appellations such as Marsannay, Gevrey, Morey, Chambolle, Vosne and Nuits. The wines are made ​​conscientiously, and the unremitting quality from vintage to vintage is steady as a metronome. They are elegantly oaked, making for pleasant drinking during the wines’ early years, and mellow beautifully after several years in a cellar.

Their cuvée Les Damodes, from Nuits-Saint-Georges, is always a favorite. A superb lieu-dit perched at the northern edge of Nuits (just above the premier cru Boudots, neighboring the Vosne premier cru Malconsorts), Les Damodes is split between premier cru vines and village vines. After producing just one label of village-level wine for many years, they now isolate the premier cru, and the grapes from the village-level vines of their vineyard now bonify the Nuits-St-Georges cuvée.

The estate produces one grand cru, Clos de la Roche. It famously received a perfect score of 100 from Wine Advocate with the 2002 vintage, and was touted by the Japanese manga The Drops of God. Unfortunately they vinify but one barrel per year.

Domaine Pierre Damoy

Pierre Damoy’s vineyards occupy 10.5 hectares, including a whopping 8 hectares spread over of the grands crus Chambertin, Chambertin-Clos-de-Bèze, and Chapelle-Chambertin. For the past two decades, this domaine has been a source of exceptional wine, largely due to their unrelenting investments in both time and effort, both in the vineyard (where they keep yields low and seek to grow healthy grapes without any chemical additives) and in the cellar (where they rigorously sort the grapes and the élevages are overseen with great attention to detail).

Domaine René Bouvier

Since we began selling wine in 1996, Le Maître de Chai has worked with Domaine René Bouvier.

Originally established in Marsannay, the domaine is now based in Gevrey, where it continues under the stewardship of Bernard Bouvier, René’s son. Owners of superb parcels in Marsannay, their holdings also include choice plots in Fixin and Gevrey. The range is rounded out by several négoce cuvees of premier crus and grand crus from the Côte de Nuits, made from purchased grapes that are both harvested and vinified by the domaine.
Bernard Bouvier is both an artisan and entrepreneur: he is genuinely curious, hardworking, charismatic and ambitious. His dynamic personality comes through in his wines. But he is also a superb communicator and has been an exceptional ambassador for the Côte d’Or.
The wines of the domaine used to have a reputation for their solid structure, but today they emphasize juiciness and suave textures, and all at very accessible prices! The increase in quality over the past few vintages is obvious for anyone who has tasted a Bouvier wine. With their gains in purity and elegance, this domaine has become a standard-bearer for Burgundy lovers.

Domaine Thibault Liger-Bélair

Thibault Liger-Belair, based in Nuits St-Georges, is at the helm of a “young” historical domaine that he created in 2001, when he took over family vineyards that had long been contracted out to various share croppers. His cousin is the famous Vicomte Liger-Belair of Vosne Romanee, who represents the other branch in the Liger-Belair family tree.

A young winemaker, Thibault has risen rapidly to the upper echelons of Burgundy’s elite. His meteoric ascent is due in no small part to his impressive holdings, including Richebourg, Clos de Vougeot, and an over 2 hectare parcel of Les Saint-Georges, the most prestigious premiers cru in Nuits Saint-Georges. But the terroir isn’t responsible for everything: Thibault, it goes without saying, is a phenomenal vigneron.

He seeks more than anything to allow the expression of terroir in his wines, which is why all of his vineyards are farmed biodynamically. He also uses horses to plough his vineyards, whenever possible. Vineyard yields are drastically low, allowing him to focus on gentle extractions, with very little punching down or pumping over. For some cuvées, a certain amount of whole clusters are used. In recent vintages, he’s made significant progress and his wines are constantly improving in terms of definition and purity. The hard work of putting his fields back in order has started to pay dividends. The Domaine expanded to the Beuajolais in 2009 with the acquisition of vineyards in Moulin-à-Vent.

Domaine Guilhem et Jean-Hugues Goisot

The Goisot family have built a reputation for their constant reflection, and the meticulous work that follows.

They possess a remarkable sensitivity to every possible variable that will improve the quality of their wines. One of those is biodynamic agriculture which they adopted with brio a decade ago. The goal is simple: translate the terroir as clearly as possible to their wines. Critical acclaim over the years shows that they have been successful as Goisot’s wines are without question some of the most accomplished in the Auxerrois.

Three of their cuvées are presently sold at the SAQ as specialty wines: Bourgogne Aligoté, Saint-Bris and the red, Bourgogne Côtes d’Auxerre. The rest of the portfolio is sold as private imports, irrespective of the vintage as consistency is also one of Goisot’s strengths. Of interest, the Saint-Bris “Corps de Garde” is made with Fié-Gris, or Sauvignon Gris. In typical Goisot fashion, despite the grape’s reputation for small yields, they re-introduced this exceptional variety into their vineyard after it had disappeared from the region post-phylloxera.

Domaine d’Élise

A couple of years went by after our first visit with Frédéric Prain before we rekindled our relationship in 2008. We wanted to be sure that the public was ready for what was then the relatively unknown appellation of Petit Chablis. Prain’s Petit Chablis d’Élise hit the SAQ shelves a year later, and the wine’s success has been truly impressive. Prain lived in Paris prior to buying his estate in Milly, one of the communes in Chablis. He’s a remarkably interesting character, whose personality is driven by his past urban experience mixed with his newly chosen life as rural artisan, which is reflected in his estate which lies on the border between Chablis and Petit Chablis. Prain’s Petit Chablis is lean and lively, owing its character to the Portlandian limestone. The Chablis, grown on classic Kimmeridgien limestone, values ripeness as much as the classic Chablis minerality and acidity.

Domaine Confuron-Cotetidot

At Domaine Confuron-Cotetidot, the apple doesn’t fall far from the tree.

The pater familias, Jacky, is both a formidable vigneron as well as quite the character. His sons, Yves and Jean-Pierre, are now in charge of the keeping this domaine in the upper echelons of Burgundy. Confuron-Cotetidot is among the select few wineries to have been awarded three stars by Le Guide des Meilleurs Vins de France.
The wines are always vinified with whole clusters. How do we know? Ask them and they will respond simply: “we don’t own a destemmer.” This necessitate using the ripest grapes possible which involves an element of risk considering Burgundy’s testy Autumn climate. In any given vintage, the Confurons are always among the last to harvest. Very few new barrels are used, but the elevages are very long, and they are also amongst the last to bottle. The wines are robust and energetic, ideally built for the long haul. Aging accentuates their floral aromas and bestows a state of grace to their wines. These are grand wines from the “old school” tradition—in the best possible ways.
On a recent visit, our team inquired about the location of a lieu-dit called Les Treux, the source for most of the grapes used in their grand cru Échézeaux. Often criticized by “experts,” Yves took us for a walk in the vineyards of Vosne-Romanée. A quick visual survey was enough to reveal that the Échézeaux of Confuron-Cotetidot lie precisely at the intersection of Clos Vougeot, Grands Échézeaux and Échézeaux. It is indeed an exceptional vineyard which is proven in the consistent quality of the wine.

Salon

Salon is widely recognized as one of the world’s most prestigious champagnes.

Salon makes a mono-varietal Champagne using chardonnay grapes selected from the finest terroir in the Côte des Blancs, that of Mesnil-sur-0ger. Aimé Salon created the brand in 1911. He established a tradition that has continued ever since, which is that their vintage champagne is produced only in the best years.

In order to preserve the acidity, thus ensuring freshness and lengthening its ageability, the wine does not undergo malolactic fermentation. It is degorged and put on the market only after a decade of in-house aging. Drinking a Salon champagne is always a special moment with its mind-blowing tension alongside a rich, textured body supported by a spine of acidity, finishing with a chalky minerality and delicate spice.

Delamotte

Both Salon and Delamotte’s champagnes are made by the same house.

The former brand is an indication—and a guarantee—of the latter’s quality. If Salon elevates any tasting into a memorable eexperience, Delamotte is all about pure, immediate pleasure.

Delamotte is not a mass-produced “commercial” champagne. Despite the competitive price-point, its quality level far surpasses that of the widely-available industrial champagnes. Their Brut, a specialty product at the SAQ, is a blend of 50% chardonnay from the Côte des Blancs, specifically from the crus of Mesnil-sur-Oger, Oger, and Avise. The blend is rounded out with 30% pinot noir and 20% pinot meunier.

Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve accurately convey the bubbly’s spirit in their 2012 guide: “A discreet estate, Delamotte specializes in fresh, slender and supple aperitif champagnes whose character is marked by a crisp aromatic spectrum with citrus highlights.”