It is not only estates from Burgundy’s Côte d’Or who have implanted themselves in Beaujolais. Plans to renovate a family residence in the Macon combined with the desire for new wine making challenges led the brothers Antoine and Maxime Graillot, whose work in Crozes-Hermitage needs no introduction, to purchase some magnificent vineyards in Beaujolais, Saint-Amour and Fleurie. In doing so, Domaine de Fa was born. Fa is short for Faye, which is the lieu-dit where the Graillots have set up their operations in a former stable turned winery.

2014 was their first vintage, a single Beaujolais labeled with the lieu-dit “En Besset,” which was sourced from the first vineyards they purchased, grouping together vineyards in Beaujolais and Saint-Amour. As of 2015, these wines are bottled separately in their own appellations, as well as a Fleurie, lieu-dit “Roche Guillon.”

The vineyards are farmed biodynamically. For winemaking, Antoine and Maxime designed the chai to work by gravity. They vinify with whole clusters, entirely in concrete, for a maximum of 10 days. Wines are aged predominately in foudres, with a small proportion of used barriques and demi-muids. The result are wines which have that Graillot signature, dense and structured but without sacrificing immediate accessibility.

Louis-Claude Desvignes’ two children, Claude-Emmanuelle and Benoit-Claude, have jointly managed the domaine for the past decade.

Unlike many Beaujolais producers, their Morgons are made without carbonic maceration and are not allowed to to reach the high temperatures at the beginning of the maceration period (a method which serves to extract different aromas). The juice undergoes montages and délestages, which are traditional vinification techniques usually employed outside of Beaujolais. The Desvignes are getting closer and closer to organic methods, plowing the soil and limiting chemical interventions.

Their wines are the real-deal, with surprising structure for a Morgon, and an almost pinot noir-like depth.  The main guides of France place the wines of Domaine Louis-Claude Desvignes at the summit of Morgon.

We had been importing Laurent Martay’s Brouilly and Côte de Brouilly for many years before they joined the ranks of the SAQ’s specialty products. Today, Martray’s Brouilly is a flagship product in its category at the SAQ, showing to those who are sceptical that the appellation can yield far-from-commonplace wines. The Brouilly has been a huge success, as has the exceptional Côte de Brouilly “Les Feuillées.” It is faithful to appellation as it offers up more structure, with a striking minerality and surprising length.

There’s no doubt that the wines of Laurent Martray helped generate interest among Quebecers for Cru Beaujolais. If northern Burgundy is the global standard of pinot noir, the same applies for gamay in Beaujolais, as the region’s recent renaissance testifies. We can only add that Laurent Martray is a charming, welcoming host. Have the urge to visit? You’ll definitely need a GPS, like many wineries in the labyrinthian of backroads of Beaujolais.

Pierre-Marie Chermette is as much a hard worker as he is talented. Along with his wife, Martine, they own vineyards throughout Beaujolais. They have a parcel adjacent to the winery in southern Beaujolais but most of the vineyards are scattered throughout the appellations of Fleurie, Moulin-à-Vent and Brouilly. Pierre-Marie spends his days travelling hours between all his vineyards. The man is unrelenting and seemingly tireless in his pursuit of growing great grapes.

The end result of all that hard work are exceptional wines. France’s top wine guides are unanimous in placing Pierre-Marie Chermette amongst the headliners of Beaujolais. Their wines always show great density and a smooth texture, all built on a solid core of fruit. Most importantly, you can always taste the terroir in each cuvée, which makes Chermette an important ambassador for Beaujolais.