Until a few years ago, the appellation of Montlouis was fairly quiet. The recent surge of interest in the region is largely due to the wines of François Chidaine and to his impact as a mentor-figure to the area’s young winemakers. In fact, the wines of his domain have been among the great triumphs in latter-day Loire. François Chidaine has been working in biodynamism since 1999. As he explains on his website, “each parcel of vines expresses itself differently due to the nature of soils, to their location, or to the age of the vines.”

Each year, Chidaine produces five cuvées from the terroirs of Montlouis. Two of them, Les Tuffeaux (demi-sec) and Les Choisilles are specialties at the SAQ, as is his Montlouis Méthode Traditionnelle. He has also started producing three cuvées of Vouvray, from the opposite bank of the Loire opposite Montlouis. One of them, the cuvée Les Argiles, is also in the SAQ. His others are available through private importation.

One must distinguish between François Cotat and Pascal Cotat, who are cousins. The Cotat name was raised to mythical levels by Paul Cotat, Francois’ father. Paul loved very ripe grapes, and in hot vintages, he proudly made sought-after cuvées of semi-dry whites. François also harvests his grapes at high levels of ripeness. The soil in the town of Chavignol is composed of Kimmeridgian limestone which, as in Chablis, bestows longevity upon the wines. The strong identity of François Cotat’s wines is due as much to the glorious terroir itself as to the domaine’s patient manual harvesting. The domaine also knows a thing or two about pressurage and élevage. To discover the full potential of these mythical wines requires keeping a few bottles of Grande Côte, Culs de Beaujeu or Monts Damnés in the cellar for about twenty years.

The appellation of Sancerre extends over approximately 2500 hectares, ranking it among the largest AOCs in France. A handful of plots are located just outside the 8km-wide geographical core surrounding the town of Sancerre. A further 15 km away, one comes to the vineyards of Montigny, one of the more unusual parts of the appellation. It is here that Henry Natter oversees his vineyards, whose soils are composed of terres blanches, one of three major soil-types that define the appellation’s terroir. He was the first one to begin planting vines here some thirty years ago. The 2013 edition of the Bettane et Desseauve French wine guide notes that “the Kimmeridgian clay subsoil and the solid maturity levels of the grapes allow the domaine to obtain white wines with exotic notes –and without any heaviness.”

Huet ranks among the most important names in the world of wine.

Because Vouvray is an appellation dedicated strictly to whites, meaning it isn’t capable of garnering the prestige associated with a Pomerol or a Gevrey-Chambertin, it’s a significant accomplishment that the name of Domaine Huet is so widely known and appreciated. Noël Pinguet is a tireless crusader in his quest to raise the renown of both the domaine and the AOC. Before him, Gaston Huet spent fifty years fighting the same good fight. Domaine Huet is considered a pioneer in the field of biodynamics. Noël Pinguet’s reasons for continuing this practice, he said, is pure pragmatism. Twenty years ago, after a series of experiments, he learned that his biodynamic wines were simply better. Both in Vouvray and Montlouis, the autumnal state of the grapes determines which percentage of the production is dedicated to dry, semi-dry and sweet wines. It is the decision of the winemaker who subsequently determines the proportions of still wines and sparkling wines. Whatever the category of wine, and whatever the vintage, Domaine Huet’s Vouvrays are always vibrant and nuanced, true vins de meditation for any self-respecting epicurean.

The vineyards of the Loire Valley make for a vast, fragmented region with over 45 different AOCs. Many interesting Loire Valley appellations are either little-known—or almost classified information. The isolated appellation of Quincy, located near Reuilly, 75 km to the west of Sancerre, is considered to be part of the Loire Centre AOC for administrative reasons. The wine craftsmen in these appellations generally do not garner much publicity. Since 2002, Helen Mamoux-Mardon has been running this nearly two centuries-old domaine. Their white wine sold at the SAQ is a sauvignon blanc with understandably less complexity than a Sancerre, but its daintiness and affordability make it an unbeatable choice. The wine is consistently delicious—as the wide range of awards and mentions in the best wine guides can attest.

Nicolas Reverdy tragically passed away in 2007. His gifted wife Sophie took over management of the cellar, with support from Nicolas’ brother Pascal, who oversees work on the vines. It is a pleasure to note that their 2010 and 2011 vintages achieved the same consistently high level the domaine has been known for over the past two decades. Their Sancerre Terres de Maimbray is quintessential Sancerre, uniting fresh, crispy fruit with the nervousness conferred by Maimbray’s clay and limestone soils. Le Maître de Chai has overseen the private importation of Domaine Reverdy’s Sancerres for the past 15 years.

The first steps Le Maître de Chai undertook as private importers involved a handful of producers in Burgundy and the Loire. Philippe Alliet’s wines came on board during our launch in 1996. Little known at the time, Philippe is now considered the pope of Chinon. They have serious density because the labor in the vines is all about low yields. He spends most of his time tending the vineyard. Within an appellation known for producing easy-drinking wines for the terraces of Paris, Philippe Alliet is an outsider. We have to say, we love the outsiders of the wine world.

His Coteau de Noire cuvée is a coveted wine. Both it, and his cuvée L’Huisserie, come from the limestone and silica hills of Cravant. It’s best to wait a few years before drinking them. His Tradition and Vieilles Vignes cuvees stem from sandy, gravelly soils that yield wines whose structures loosen more quickly. Now available at the SAQ, they’re wines that have caught on fast.