Sottimano

It’s the inherent advantage in making wine in an historic appellation. A new generation of vignerons benefit from the accumulated experience passed on from previous generations, yet still push the envelope and innovate. The goal is to make the wines, which are already considered references, even better. This is precisely what the Sottimano family have done at their estate in Neive, one of the three communes which make up the prestigious Barbaresco appellation.

The man in charge of the estate is Andrea Sottimano, who recently took over from his father Rino, who founded the estate. The family owns parcels in five crus and produce four distinctive Barbarescos, each vinified identically and aged in French barriques. As with crus in Burgundy, tasting is the best way to understand the nuances of each of these extraordinary terroirs. Fausoni is always the most floral, elegant, as well as being the most accessible in youth. Currà and Cottà, which surround the family residence and winemaking facility, are wines of great density and structure, wines built for the long haul. Pajoré combines the best of both, showing power yet with great finesse. The vineyard of the cru Basarin, which was purchased in 2002, is principally younger vines whose grapes are destined for the family’s “Langhe Nebbiolo.” As with tradition in Piedmont, Sottimano also make a Dolcetto and a Barbera d’Alba. The portfolio finishes with a tasty curiosity as Andrea decided to make a Brachetto, which is vinified dry, called “Maté.”

While Sottimano already has a reputation as one of Piedmont’s top wineries, over the past five years the wines have reached new heights. A critic for one of Italy’s most prestigious wine guides recently confided in me that “Andrea is setting new standards and will write his own page in the history of Barbaresco.” Despite the critical acclaim, Sottimano’s wines remain very reasonably priced.