Situated northern Piedmont, under 100km from Milan, Gattinara might be the most underestimated appellation in Italy.

It flies under the radar, existing in the shadow of two of not only Piedmont’s, but Italy’s most venerable appellations, Barolo and Barbaresco. Like its esteemed neighbours, Gattinara’s reds are made with nebbiolo, known locally as spanna.

Winemaking in the Gattinara dates back to the 12th century, but after a cataclysmic hailstorm in 1905 the vineyard was practically abandoned until the 1960’s. Today, their is renewed interest in this historic appellation and if people are coming back to Gattinara’s wines, it’s in part due to the region’s most renowned winery, Antoniolo.

Founded in 1948, the winery is operated by the brother and sister team of Lorella et Alberto Antoniolo. Their mother, Rosanna, remains a legend in this corner of Italy. They produce wines of purity and elegance, with much softer tannins than the nebbiolos of Langhe. Like all traditionally-made nebbiolo, delicate aromas and light colour are but appearance. These are wines of great complexity, depth and density.

Leading the way are three crus: Osso San Grato, San Francesco and Castelle. While they drink well immediately, their ability to age should not be discounted. The Coste della Sesia is a superb introduction to Antonolio’s wines while the Gattinara, which is available as a speciality product at the SAQ, shows the same trademark finesse and power as the crus.

Garnering praise by specialized wine media over the years is nothing new for Antoniolo. In 2010, their 2005 Osso San Grato was proclaimed “red wine of the year” by Italy’s prestigious Gambero Rosso.