Wines from the commune of Vacqueyras were labeled simply as Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages until 1990, the year they were elevated to the ranks of AOC. Much has changed since then for this appellation alongside its sibling, Gigondas. The requirements have tightened, notably a mandatory lowering of yields for reds to a maximum of 35 hl/ha. Christian Vache took the bull by the horns and catapulted his domaine to the top of Vacqueyras. He made a return to working the soil, refurbished the chai to isolate two separate cellars (one strictly for barriques), and now produces three red cuvées that offer a crescendoing expression of the Vacqueyras terroir.

Christian’s mischievous son Damien has been helming the domaine for a few years now, and his tenure has witnessed the domaine’s conversion to organic cultivation. With Monardière and Le Sang des Cailloux, does Maître de Chai represent the two brightest lights in Vacqueyras? We think so.

The Vacqueyras wines of Domaine Le Sang des Cailloux are as eccentric as their maker’s Delhi mustache. They can be imposing—seriously imposing when it comes to their cuvée Lopy. But let’s start at the top because their story is wonderful. Serge Férigoule started at the domaine in 1979 as a field worker. Then, in 1982, he became partners with the owner (who had no descendants). Then, in 1990, he became the sole, happy owner of the winery. What made everything fall into place? His panache, his oenology diploma, his energy, and his ability to be in the right place at the right time.

Serge Férigoule is a biodynamic winemaker (certified since 2008). He belongs to the group Biodyvin which includes, among others in our portfolio, Dirler-Cade, Vacheron, Chidaine, Bellivière, and Mellot. One of the two red wines he makes is named each year after one of Serge’s three daughters: Azalaïs, Floureto, and Doucinello. The grande cuvée Lopy is made from grenache vines that are over 65 years old. The wines are seriously concentrated, of a density and richness only attained through drastically reduced yields. Tasting them, they often come across as Châteauneuf-du-Papes, the Vacqueyras appellation’s close neighbor.

Clos du Caillou is located within a former game reserve abutting the border of the Châteauneuf-du-Pape AOC. In 1936, the owner at the time declined to grant access to his land to experts in charge of delineating the appelation’s boundaries. As a result, the clos is now in an enclave on the periphery of Châteauneuf-du-Pape and the wines made within its walls are classified as Côtes du Rhône-Villages. Whether Quartz and Reserve, they are rich and textured. They also make two basic Côtes du Rhônes, a CDR Clos du Caillou and a CDR Bouquet des Garrigues.

Beyond the clos itself, the property also owns nine hectares of AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The resultant cuvées Les Safres and Réserve are from sandy soils, and their Quartz comes from a terroir of rounded galets.

Clos du Caillou’s reputation was built by the genial Jean-Denis Vacheron, husband of Sylvie Pouizin. He died tragically in 2002. Since then, Sylvie has hired the oenologist Bruno Gaspard to forge ahead along the trail blazed by Jean-Denis.