Rarely mentioned in wine guides, Domaine des Croix might be the best-kept secret of the Côte d’Or.

Founded in 2005, following the acquisition of the former Domaine Duchet by a group of US-led investors, the domaine can be found in the heart of the town of Beaune, and led by the dynamic co-owner David Croix, also the régisseur for Maison Camille Giroud.

Croix produces wines that defy one’s conception of what is Beaune. The appellation’s production is largely under the control of large negociants, but Croix shows what attention to detail can achieve. His Pertuisots, Grèves and Bressandes show a body and texture rarely found in the AOC’s usual premiers crus. With four premier crus from Beaune to their name, as well as a village cuvée, Domaine des Croix is setting new standards for the appellation.

They make a majestic white Corton-Charlemagne and, as of 2009, they’ve started producing grand crus from two lieux-dits in Corton: La Vigne au Saint and Les Grèves.

Still in his thirties, David Croix and the Domain received the following appraisal from Clive Coates in his 2008 book The Wine of Burgundy: “This estate is run by the talented David Croix, winemaker at Maison Camille Giroud. I expect great things here.” Based on our own tastings, as well as recent comments in the media on the latest vintages, we believe those “great things” are already happening.

This domaine is one of the crown jewels of Burgundy.

Patrick Landanger, who bought the property in 1997, was born to be a winemaker, and the proof is how he has been able maintain the high reputation established by the previous owner, the legendary Gérard Potel. Their impressive vineyard holdings includes ten premier and grands crus in the Côte de Beaune, including four premier crus in the commune of Volnay (three of them are monopoles: Clos des Bousse d’Or, Clos d’Audignac, and Clos des 60 Ouvrées. Beginning with the 2009 vintage, Pousse d’Or has acquired significant vineyards in Côte de Nuits, including several formidable crus in Chambolle-Musigny such as Les Amoureuses and Bonnes Marres, as well as Clos de la Roche in Morey. Their mosaic of parcels is one of the largest and most prestigious of all Burgundy.

The wines are complete, full, harmonious, and always exhibit great elegance. Their approach is to harvest physiologically ripe grapes. They also employ techniques of cold maceration prior to fermentation and they strive for moderate extractions. These methods define the wines of La Pousse D’Or: noble bouquets, smooth and velvety textures, and wines that combine concentration and balance.

The Domaine de Courcel proudly oversees four choice plots of premier crus in Pommard, including the prestigious Clos des Epenots and Les Rugiens.

As of 1996, the régisseur (winemaker and estate manager) is Yves Confuron, who also co-directs the renowned domain Confuron-Cotetidot in Vosne-Romanée. As is traditional in the Côte de Nuits, the vinification is whole clusters, with grapes that have attained high levels of phenolic maturity. The domaine believes in moderate, reasoned use of new oak. The elevages are long, lasting up to 24 months.

These Pommards befit the appellation’s reputation: they are wines of imposing stature, and aging them is a prerequisite to fully appreciate them. After ten or more years, they acquire phenomenal depth and complexity. They are among the profoundest expressions of pinot noir available.

Among the leading domaines of Savigny-les-Beaune, Chandon de Briailles also has vineyards situated in the finest terroirs of Pernand-Vergelesses and the hillside of Corton. They have been biodynamic since 2005. They vinify by partially destemming and use new barrels sparingly, resulting in wines of a staunchly classical style. Without being opulent, they have depth and body, and brilliantly reveal their true colours with proper aging. Given their distinctive personalities, these wines are greatly appreciated by fans of real Burgundy. Insider tip: Chandon de Briailles are the largest landholders of Savigny-les-Beaune premier cru Ile-de-Vergelesses, considered by many to be deserving of grand cru status.

Alongside its own premier cru vineyards in Beaune, La Maison Camille Giroud also purchases grapes from all over the Côte d’Or to curate a solid roster of fine Burgundies.With its compact size and minutious approach, this negociant produces “haute couture” wines.

When the domain was purchased in 2001 by Americans Ann Colgin, Joe Wender and their partners, they hired the talented David Croix straight out of school. He has managed the property up until 2016, with Carel Voorhuis now in charge. They vinified together the 2016 vintage to ensure a fine continuity in the syle of the wines. The reds are what we love about Burgundy with their bright bouquets, sensual mouthfeels, and fine, silky tannins. A tasting here is always highly educational for wine-lovers. Not only are their wines impressive, but it’s one of the few places in the Côte d’Or where one can enjoy everything from Maranges to Marsannay, passing through all the grand crus in between. It is not uncommon for Camille Giroud to make wines from over 30 different appellations in any given vintage.